Understanding the expansion of circular markets: building relational legitimacy to overcome the stigma of second-hand clothing

C. Valor, L. Ronda, C. Abril

Sustainable Production and Consumption Vol. 30, pp. 77 - 88

Resumen:

Despite evidence showing that the expansion of circular markets, particularly second-hand clothing markets, may be constrained by so-called green stigma, our understanding of the extent to which stigma can be decreased is limited. By focusing on the cultural construction of the mass second-hand clothing market in a European country, this study demonstrated that the emotional and validation work carried out by institutional actors—i.e., players (vendors), media and consumers—constructs the relational legitimacy of the market, which eventually leads to market expansion. The results of this study provide a novel explanation of market expansion by unveiling a key mediating process: the formation of a new habitus that, in turn, sustains the construction of relational legitimacy judgements of circular business models by overcoming green stigma. The results also inform the study of transitions by showing that micro-foundational work can explain market expansion.

Resumen divulgativo:

Los mercados de ropa de segunda mano se frenan por el estigma verde. El trabajo demuestra cómo es posible cambiar el estigma verde gracias al trabajo emocional de diferentes actores (empresas, influencers y medios) que modifican los significados y las emociones asociadas a la ropa de segunda mano.

Palabras Clave: Market expansion; Legitimization; Circular markets; Habitus; Fashion; Second-hand clothing; Green stigma

Índice de impacto JCR y cuartil WoS: 12,100 - Q1 (2022); 10,900 - Q1 (2023)

Referencia DOI: https://doi.org/10.1016/j.spc.2021.11.027

Publicado en papel: Marzo 2022.

Publicado on-line: Diciembre 2021.

Cita:
C. Valor, L. Ronda, C. Abril, Understanding the expansion of circular markets: building relational legitimacy to overcome the stigma of second-hand clothing. Sustainable Production and Consumption. Vol. 30, pp. 77 - 88, Marzo 2022. [Online: Diciembre 2021]